PATTERN GUIDE SHEET: 10 THINGS THAT WILL HELP YOUR GARMENT MAKING PROCESS

 Part of the many benefits that comes with the use of a commercial sewing pattern is the Pattern Guide Sheet which you will find in your Sewing Pattern envelope.

So in today post we are going to talk about the Ten(10) things in your Pattern Guide Sheet and how it can help you in your garment making process. To get started let me define what a Pattern Guide Sheet is?

A Pattern Guide Sheet is a leaflet of about two(2) to three(3) pages containing cutting and sewing instructions meant to guide the sewer on the process of making the garment using the purchased sewing pattern.

So below I will be using both DMA and McCall's Pattern Guide Sheet to discuss the Ten(10) things you shall find in every pattern guide sheet whenever you purchase a commercial sewing pattern.

1. GARMENT SKETCH

These are the drawings /illustrations of both the front and back of each garment style view you will be working on. It purpose is to serve as a reference which mean that you can conveniently refer to the sketches/illustrations to know which garment style view you are working on. It will also help you to check if you are successfully working with the right garment style for your project.

2. PATTERN PIECES LIST & SKETCH

These are the Sketch lists of each garment pieces require for each garment style A/B/C. The pattern pieces for each garment style is listed by Alphabet/Number or a combination of both and the garment style view is directly written underneath or adjacent the Sketches.

So In this section you will get the information on the number of pattern pieces and the corresponding sketch require for each garment style A/B/C you want to work on. This section will also help you on the number of pattern pieces you need to trace-out and if you are working correctly on the right pattern piece for your selected garment style.

3. PATTERN MARKINGS/SYMBOLS

This section is the pattern marking glossary which show pattern marking/symbols and their definition. It gives the meaning of the pattern markings or symbols you shall find on any given pattern especially the one you’re working on.

These pattern markings or symbols aren’t just meaningless but they represent direction when laying out, marking or cutting your sewing pattern. It’s an important section you must not overlook.  

4.  ADJUST IF NECESSARY

This section shows you where to lengthen or shorten a sewing pattern if you need to. It is a very basic diagram/key with written instruction.

Lengthening/shortening a pattern piece is a pretty common adjustment that most people do so this area is there in case you need it. The lengthen and Shorten lines are clearly marked on your pattern pieces and should be follow if necessary. Some sewing patterns, depending on their design, should not be lengthened or Shortened at the hemline of the pattern pieces as that will affect the design. So look for where to perform this adjustment on the pattern pieces if necessary. 

  5. CUTTING & MARKING

This is a very important section for you if you’re a sewing beginner. This area is important because it explains things you need to know and do before you cut your garment. It tells you things like: 1.SHRINKING and knowing the width of the fabric you will be using; 2. CIRCLING your layout for the view of the garment style you’re working with. Why are these two things important?

•          SHRINKING  In order to prevent Shrinkage issue from your finish garment especially if you are working with organic fabric like cotton, wool, hemp, linen, silk est. (some of which are used in Africa Textile print such as Adire, Ankara, Kente est.).Preshrinking or Prewashing/Dry Cleaning (if it’s dry clean only) by washing and pressing your fabric to remove dirt/starch treatment/ chemical sizing and excess dye from the production process will get the shrinkage out before you cut your garment. If you don’t get the shrinkage out before garment is cut and sewn; it could cause it to be extremely tight and no longer fit.
•         CIRCLING the layout of the garment style view you want to sew will make it easy for you to identify if you circle it and save you from both cutting-errors and fabric wastages.

 

6. CUTTING LAYOUTS

The Cutting Layout is a guide on how to place your pattern pieces on your fabric for cutting. This section directs you on which pattern piece should be on the fold line and how to place on the grain of fabric parallel or perpendicular (i.e. vertical or horizontal) to the selvage. This instruction is also demonstrated through the use of a drawing/illustration which is place directly in this section and if follow will help you in cutting your fabric with the right pattern piece and laying them well for economical use of the fabric which thereby will prevent fabric wastage.

Also the Cutting layouts are listed by:

·         VIEW: which is the style of the garment you are marking/working on.

·         FABRIC WIDTH: is the width of the fabric you are using.

·         SIZE: is the pattern size you are using.

·         WITH or WITHOUT NAP: A nap is a raise fiber in your fabric giving it a piled surface and could make the fabric color not uniform( i.e. you will have both lighter and richer version of the fabric color).So fabric WITH NAP means this while WITHOUT NAP means the fabric doesn’t have a nap.

So depending on the choice of Fabric you choose for your sewing project which can be fabric WITH NAP such as velvet, corduroy, flannel & Satin are all examples; You can choose if you like the rich or lighter version of the fabric color but the rule is that all your pattern pieces have to be lay in one direction so that every piece will be one color and not look like two different colors.  

However If you decided to work with Fabric WITHOUT NAP such as denim, crepe or wool are all examples; No matter which way you hold the fabric, it will look the same. So you can layout your pattern pieces in both direction and they will look the same.  

NOTE: Once you find the right layout for the view you’re using, it’ll tell you the number of pattern pieces you will need. Remember you can refer to the list under The Pattern Pieces List & Sketch we talked about in #2.  

7.  CUTTING LAYOUT KEY.

The cutting layout key (A key is a term used for diagram in pattern instruction terminology) tells you which pattern piece should be on the right side or wrong when you lay it on the fabric. It also tells you the right side and the wrong side of the fabric in the layout section.

 For example a pattern piece that should be cut on the right side is white but pattern piece to be cut with wrong side up has a small dotted pattern on it to let you know to place the right side of the pattern piece face down on the fabric. You also should be aware of your fabric two side; the light gray on the fabric means that is the right side of the fabric but the plain white side is the wrong side of the fabric.

This could get confusing while cutting and sewing so be sure to refer to the cutting and marking section whenever you need to.

8. SEWING INFORMATION KEY

The sewing information key is quite different from the cutting lay out key (#7) which is used during the layout of your pattern piece and cutting of your garment. The sewing information key is used when you are sewing the garment. it guide you on the sewing material and task such as the fabric, lining, interface, seam-trimming etc. and it contain pattern fabric key.

When you are reading this section, sometimes you’ll notice the drawing of the fabric is light-grey, black or white etc. which is to show you the different sides of the fabric or different fabric altogether. Also you may find a seam allowances key which is a set of diagrams on how to trim and press different types of seam allowances. This key is pretty universal among pattern companies but do make sure you refer to your pattern’s fabric key to be sure.

9. GLOSSARY

The glossary section is a list of all the sewing term you shall find in the sewing instructions. It briefly explains it and how to do it but don’t expect it to give you detailed information. Though they refer to a sewing technique or specific stitch which you will perform when you’re sewing your garment to get a good finishing result. So you can always refer here when you’re sewing your garment.

10. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS ( pictured)

Your sewing instructions will show you how to sew your garment. The drawings and written instructions are there to help you with each sewing step. It’s never a bad thing to look through your sewing Instructions before you start sewing and more so you don’t have to read them word for word to follow the instruction, just get an idea of what is involved in the making of your garment.

Don’t worry yourself when you come across something you don’t quite understand when you are reading the sewing instruction; By the time you start sewing your garment, the previous step of sewing may help you to understand the next step.

I hope with the help of this post you will understand your Pattern Guide Sheet which seem complicated to you before.

 Let me know if you have any question or contribution in the comment section. 

Thanks for reading.